We have finally reached the last decade of the fashion journal series, and while I’m sad to see it go, it was a ton of research and writing to conduct! I hope you’ve enjoyed reading it as much as I’ve loved putting it together. Anti-conformity was a huge part of the 1990s aesthetic, influenced by the popularity of grunge and alternative rock. In the western world, the 90s saw the mainstream introduction of tattoos, body piercings, and various other forms of body modifications. A lot of the 1990s fashion recycled trends from previous decades, like the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. With that being said, you may see some familiar shapes and colors!


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Left: A silk lilac number paired with summer sandals in 1995

A notable style from the 1990s was the underwear-as-outerwear trend. Baby doll dresses, which drew inspiration from the 1960s, were printed in shiny fabrics like satin, sequins, silk, and vinyl. Dollskill once again has caught my eye with this 90s-inspired slip dress with a pretty feather trim. I also love that the model on the right looks straight out of the 1990s- chokers, tattoos, bleached hair, and big earrings. The garment has been updated to have adjustable straps, and, of course, the feather embellishment. I think the slip dress is a graceful nod to the 1990s aesthetic, and I love the direction Dollskill decided to take it.


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Top: Acid-wash shorts, circa mid 1990s

As I said, previous decades had a heavy influence on the trends of the 1990s. The hippie movement in particular made a comeback with the grunge subculture, as seen in these 90s acid-wash shorts. I love these shorts because they’re decorated with DIY-slogans and pictures, celebrating the psychedelic style of the 1960s while still remaining very grungy and punk. The shorts on the bottom are sold by Poshmark, and are similar in regards to the wash and cut. The Poshmark shorts also drew inspiration from the handmade-inspired prints, like the flowers and a peace symbol with the word “love”. The modern shorts, however, are a lot less colorful and overwhelming than the 90s ones, so I don’t consider them to be an exact copy or replication. Rather, Poshmark took inspiration from these grungy shorts, and put their own modern spin on them.


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Left: Vintage 1990s Jill Sander dress

I couldn’t talk about the 1990s without bringing up the gothic subculture, which is one of my personal favorites to draw inspiration from. Gothic fashion peaked in the late 1990s among American, British, and German youth, who wanted to break from the preppy mainstream style. On the left is a 1990s Jill Sander sheer gothic dress with bell sleeves, and on the right, a more modern adaption. The dress has been updated to have a lace-up front, and it’s much shorter, but the thick bell sleeves are still the iconic statement of the piece. The dress has also incorporated a flowy, free figure- a popular silhouette in the 1990s. I absolutely adore that vintage Jill Sander dress- too bad it’s $672!


Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1990s_in_fashion

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1990s-Jil-Sander-Sheer-Sexy-Gothic-Dress-Carwash-Hem-Long-Bell-Sleeves-Goth-90s-/352196140903

http://wheretoget.it/look/2924357

 

 

The 1980s were a turbulent time in the fashion world- a celebration of bright apparel and big, curly puffed-up hair. Everything about the 80s was colorful- the makeup, the nails, and of course, the clothes. I think one of the biggest key words we can use to describe the 1980s is “glamour”, not only for women’s fashion, but also as a celebration of androgyny in the pop industry. I have some super fun, electric outfits picked out for today’s fashion journal, and I’m so excited to talk about these looks!

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Left: 1980s Doc Marten Boots

There are certainly a lot of 80s trends that did not age well, but Doc Martens is an exception. This popular punk boots have evolved to remain both relevant and stylish, not only for the punk community, but for everyone. In the 80s, Doc Martens were worn by both sexes, and usually paired with back-combed hair, a ton of eyeliner, and fishnets. The Doc Martens brand has survived into the 2010s, now with more modern additions and embellishments. The modern Docs on the right have been embellished with faux flowers, and are studded along the exterior of the shoe. I love that although the brand has changed, Doc Marten has remained true to their aesthetic and overall look.


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Left: Argentine music group in 1986

Like I said, the 1980s were a time for geometric patterns and vibrant color combos. The sudden popularity of aerobics played a large role in this desire for colorful clothes, along with the youthful, influential power of Madonna. Slim mini skirts, leather gloves, and dresses worn with thin belts were a large part of this colorful trend, as we can see in the picture on the left. On the right, this modern top from Anthropologie has clearly taken a lot of inspiration from the 1980s, especially from the geometric, loose-fitting-on-top style! Even the color schemes in the two pictures are similar: lots of bright oranges and reds, clashing with an array of blues and greens. The top on the right also comes with a matching, tight-fitting skirt, which would also be very historically accurate to the 1980s.


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Left: High-waisted acid-wash jeans from the 1980s

Another fashion that was popular with both sexes was acid-wash jeans. These jeans were influenced by the heavy metal movement, and were worn high-waisted and slightly baggy. Denim jackets were also often worn with acid-wash jeans, because as you may have guessed, being matchy-matchy in the 80s was considered very stylish! The 1980s is also when ripped jeans became popular, and is a trend that we can still see flourishing today. The picture on the right shows a pair of modern acid-washed jeans, which are also pre-made to be ripped. This particular practice was inspired by the glam-rock movement, and specifically, the music act Poison was very crucial to popularizing this. The biggest difference between the 80s jeans and the modern jeans are the cut- the modern style jeans are much tighter on the model, and are also much more low-cut. Even as the shape in jeans has changed with the times, the inspiration from heavy metal and glam rock is still present in these edgy, acid-bleached bottoms.


Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1980s_in_Western_fashion

https://www.anthropologie.com/shop/geometric-top

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/433682639103804403/?lp=true

https://www.fashionnova.com/products/acid-trip-jeans-acid-wash

We’re more than halfway through the fashion journal series, and the further we go, the more trends and diversity in fashion we are going to experience. The sixties was a budding introduction to this culture of “no rules”, and now that we’re in the seventies, this explosion of fashion is now in full swing!

The seventies were a turbulent period of glam rock, disco, new technology, and ultimately, the overproduction of cheap, synthetic clothes. Like I said, there were a wide variety of styles at this time, but the overall popular figure was tight on top, and loose on bottom. I’m very excited about the garments I’ve picked to talk about today, and I hope you enjoy reading as much as I’ve enjoyed putting it together!

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On the left: Bell-bottoms, 1970s

Of course, we can’t talk about the 1970s without mentioning the iconic bell-bottom jeans! By the 1970s, both men and women were wearing sportswear apparel, and this was primarily based on flare or bell-bottom jeans. This fashion staple proved to be the beginning of the “casual chic” movement, and to this day, flare jeans are still popular among women going for  a trendy, retro look. Over the years, bell-bottom jeans (and almost all jeans) have been popularized with pre-made rips and tears, which some may see as a nod to the 1970s punk movement.


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On the right: 1970s Punk Rockers

Speaking of the punk movement, I couldn’t not talk about the heavy metal fashion of the 1970s. As a psychobilly girl myself, I draw a lot of inspiration from the 1950s and 1960s, but also, a ton of inspiration and love from the 1970s. The early punk movie drew a lot of inspiration from hippies, but as the decade progressed, punk became all about combat boots, leather, faded jeans, and chains. The musical genre of punk itself had an enormous impact on the 1970s, and promoted a sense of rebellion and darkness among young misfits and weirdos. The punk movement has translated into modern times with brands like Dollskill, who created those fabulous garments you see on the right. The knee-high combat boots are a fantastic representation of the 70s sex appeal, and the chains on the mini skirt are also clearly inspired by the decade. Once I have a larger disposable income, I’d love to pick up some Dollskill merchandise for myself.


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Left: Models in Floral Maxi Dresses, 1973

Another iconic statement piece from the 1970s was the maxi dress, which (again), is something that we can see translated into modern times. Also deriving from the hippie movement, early maxi skirts and dresses were heavily reliant on flower patterns- a symbol of peace during the tension of the Vietnam War. In modern times, Zaful has put a fun spin on the maxi dress by making the slip shorter and adding a semi-transparent overskirt. The dress garnered inspiration from the 1970s by sticking with the flower pattern, and additionally, dips in a v-neck on the bodice. Fashion in the 1970s was generally informal, and the universal maxi dress is a perfect example of that flowy, laid-back statement.


Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1970s_in_Western_fashion

https://www.farfetch.com

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fotothek_df_n-15_0000413_Disko

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/566257353119944116/?lp=true

https://www.zaful.com/v-neck-floral-print-belted-maxi-dress-p_313199.html

 

For the first time in fashion history, the 1960s brought a number of diverse trends to the public. A number of these trends mirrored the social commentary taking place at the time, including women’s movements, racial movements, and love, sex, and drugs. The hippie movement, of course, also had an extensive influence on the fashion industry, and introduced styles such as bell-bottom jeans, paisley prints, and tye-dye fabrics. Without further adieu, let’s get into it!

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Left: 1964 Babydoll Dress

The first garment to catch my eye in the 1960s is this black mini dress worn by Anneke Gronloh in 1964. Boxy shapes were very popular in the mid 1960s, because they were symbolic of the “space age look.” Thigh length hemlines were also very popular with the space age look, which we can see in the more modern dress on the right. The two dresses are also ruffled below the waist, and while they are different lengths, they still exude a youthful and elegant style. Skimpy spaghetti straps were popularized in the 1960s, and as we can see from the dress on the right, the inspiration has carried over clearly.


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Left: Late 1960s Bride

In the late 1960s, white mini wedding dresses were very popular among young, stylish brides. With the mini dress being a fresh, new, exciting celebration of youth, it’s no wonder so many women wanted to celebrate their bodies with super-short dresses. There is a lot of “flower power” influence in the dress on the left, while on the right, the dress has been slightly updated with new materials. The modern dress uses lace on the sleeves, and appears to be a little bit longer than the 1960s dress. Nonetheless, both dresses are true to the 1960s style- flowing, short, and feminine. (Also, I apologize for the bad quality- this is the best shot of the dress I could get!)


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Left: Woman in Singapore, 1967

With the popularity of psychedelic drugs in the 1960s, many garments began incorporating brightly-colored, Pop-Art patterns into women’s clothing. This was frequently combined with multiculturalism, which was also very popular in the 1960s. A lot of style inspiration was drawn from Morocco, Nepal, India, Bali, and African countries, and in this particular dress on the left, there is a great deal of global influence in the print. This modern Pucci dress, seen on the left, is iconic and reminiscent of the 1960s, especially in regards to the bright, psychedelic print. There is definitely royal Italian influence in the dress on the right, but I also see nods to both Indian and African cultures.  


Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1960s_in_Western_fashion

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Anneke_Gr%C3%B6nloh_1964_Eurovision_dress

https://www.lucyinthesky.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=48886&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4qvlBRDiARIsAHme6ova23PcNE5-Gm1YHEsTlYf5HZYI3EulF7jUR_cxt9Fnm0n_4k_PMX8aAmDfEALw_wcB

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:BrideMiniskirt1968

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1960s_in_Western_fashion#/media/File:GamMonkey67

https://www.farfetch.com

 

 

The 1950s were a turbulent time in fashion history, and personally, one of my favorite decades to draw inspiration from. Now that the war was over, haute couture experienced a resurgence in popularity. While fitted waists and soft silhouettes were considered all the rage in the late 1940s, this was soon replaced by a new fashion statement: square shoulders and short skirts. In regards to game-changing textiles, polyester, acrylic, and spandex, and triacetate were all introduced in the 1950s.

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Left: Christian Dior, 1954

The first garment that I was immediately inspired by is this 1954 silk taffeta ball gown designed by Christian Dior. Although it is a very feminine, soft dress, Dior has kept with the theme of the 1950s, and the dress is very constructed and contoured. The silhouette of his ball gown is structured by layers of taffeta, which he has sewn into the interlining of the skirt. On the right, this more modern take is designed by JJ’s House. Besides the obvious similarity in the color, these dresses also share a v-neck bodice, and slight draping on the skirt portion. I see a lot of Dior’s graceful yet structured elements in the more modern dress, and I definitely think inspiration was drawn from his 1950s pieces.

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Left: Circa Mid 1950s

Another iconic development of the 1950s was the growth in intimate apparel. In order to achieve an hourglass silhouette, many ladies utilized intimate apparel to help enhance their curves and femininity. The boning on the lingerie was very light, but still emphasized curves and even gave the chest a pointier appearance (reminiscent of the bullet bra!). On the right, Bettie Page lingerie has made a comeback into the fashion market, and is beautifully historically accurate. The image on the left, from the early 1950s, is similar to the modern piece in regards to the mesh, boning, and underbust style. It’s so lovely that these elegant designs have carried into modern times, and now, they are readily available for all shapes and sizes.

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Left: Elvis Presley, 1957

In regards to menswear, tight-fitting drainpipe jeans became popular for both men and women. Elvis Presley is a perfect example of the youthful rebellion of the late 1950s- and he emphasized this rebellion with tight-fitting jeans in Jailhouse Rock. Jeans were considered casual sportswear in the 1950s, and were usually worn ankle-length or calf-length. On the right, skinny jeans for both men and women have remained consistently fashionable, and are a stable in many wardrobes around the world. In fact, one of the only changes I’ve seen in jeans over the past sixty years is a slight change in length.

Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1945%E2%80%931960_in_Western_fashion

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Christian_Dior_Dress

https://www.jjshouse.comhttps://www.bobbinsandbombshells.com/blog/2016/11/23/fashionable-history-lingerie-by-decade-1950shttps://bettiepagelingerie.com/collections/view-all/products/bettie-page-fine-mesh-underbust-corsethttps://www.michiganradio.org/post/medical-historian-looks-back-role-opiates-personal-physician-elvis-deathhttps://www.ae.com/men-jeans-ae-ne-x-t-level-skinny-jean-medium-wash/web/s-prod/0119_4387_936

All decades of fashion history are interesting, but now that we’re getting into the 1940s, I am getting especially excited! My style is a mixture of retro, metal, and psychobilly, so I draw a lot of inspiration from the 40s, 50s, and 60s. I even have some true vintage accessories from these decades, which I have mentioned in other posts related to fashion. With the emergence of World War II, all industries found themselves affected, and that includes the fashion industry. In Britain, clothes were even rationed during the years of the second World War, and many women actually painted seams on their legs because they couldn’t afford nylon stockings!

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Left: Two-piece, 1945

On a happier note, the 1940s did bring with it some very exciting fashion developments. The two-piece, for example, quickly took off to become one of the most iconic designs of all time. On the left, take a look at this vibrantly-colored two-piece bathing suit worn by Gene Tierney in 1945. The two-piece swimsuit was so important to fashion (and feminism) because it actually drew attention to the womanly figure- something that society had tried to hide in previous generations. Interestingly, the “bikini” was named after the Bikini Atoll, which was the site of a nuclear bomb test in 1946.


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Left: Woman in Hungary, 1943

The 1940s also brought a variety of different colors, shapes, and patterns to women’s dresses. Take a look at this colorful portrait of a woman in the mid 1940s, and just how similarly Modcloth has captured the look in their modern reproduction. Knee-length dresses were especially popular at this time, along with “shirtdress” details and tailoring. A shirtdress, as you may have guessed, is a dress that draws inspiration from a man’s shirt (including the collar and lapels). While the more modern dress has swapped the tailored collar for a simple v-neck, the similarities in shape, color, and length are still there.


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Left: Man in overcoat, 1945

Now, let’s touch upon men’s fashion during this decade. Overcoats were very popular for men at this time, and really, they haven’t changed much over the course of seventy years. While colorful clothing was popular for men in the 1920s, this had fallen out of fashion by the 1940s, and men reverted back to wearing neutral, subdued colors. 1940s suits differed from previous generations in that shoulders were more padded, and the waist was slightly nipped. The overall goal of the suit was to emphasize the man’s figure, while still remaining tailored and clean. The coat on the right, designed by Reiss, resembles the classic 1940s overcoat in regards to color, cut, and length that the coat falls to. To me, they look like they both could have come from the same decade.

What’s your favorite piece from today? I personally love the vibrant shirtdress-inspired Modcloth dress, but then again, I love anything Modcloth puts out!


Sources:

https://www.dhgate.com/product/2018-sexy-swimwear-women-floral-printed-two/410128524.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1930%E2%80%931945_in_Western_fashion

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bikini#History

Shrimpton, J (2014). Fashion in the 1940s. Oxford: Shire Publications. p. 19.

https://www.modcloth.com/shop/dresses/confetti-creativity-midi-dress/152521.html

https://www.reiss.com/us/p/salt-and-pepper-overcoat-mens-whittington-in-grey-black/?_cclid=Google_Cj0KCQjw1pblBRDSARIsACfUG10QCqvrsy9dC__6UYZvRDqUgiQxK4YXgS8xwGVdBz6mgsu2ms9c_jYaAr6HEALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1pblBRDSARIsACfUG10QCqvrsy9dC__6UYZvRDqUgiQxK4YXgS8xwGVdBz6mgsu2ms9c_jYaAr6HEALw_wcB

Welcome back to the 4th installation of my fashion journal! Today we are going to be focusing on the 1930s, which at the conclusion of the Great Depression, proved to be a turbulent time in fashion industry. Man-made fibers were one of the most exciting inventions of the 1930s, and included materials like rayon, nylon stockings, and viscose for linings and lingerie. Fashion trendsetters at this time were The Prince of Wales (King Edward VIII, until his abdication), his infamous companion Wallis Simpson, and movie stars like Joan Crawford. With that being said, let’s get into some of the more specific garments of the 1930s, and how they have created a lasting impact on the modern fashion industry.

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Left: Tea Frocks, 1930

First and foremost, take a look at this absolutely gorgeous frilled dress. The feminine flutters of the 1930s drew inspiration from the earlier 1920s flapper, and this art-deco dress. The dress on the right draws inspiration from the dropped hemline, loose calf skirts, and split short sleeves. Additionally, the color pink was a SHOCKING revelation at the time, so the modern dress on the right is a pretty spot-on representation of the time!


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On the left: Mohair and cashmere coat, made by J. Lubliner of London for Marshall & Snellgrove

Another trend of the time was a luxuriously fur-lined wool winter coat, and it doesn’t take a lot of online searching to realize that has not gone out of style, either. While many designers today have adapted to look to incorporate faux fur, the overall essence and boxy design of the coat is still present. Elsa Schiaparelli is one of the most notable designers of the 1930s who is credited with “changing the outline of fashion from soft to hard”. This 1930s mohair & cashmere coat pictured on the left is the ultimate representation of Schiaparelli’s envision for a masculine, boxy frame, while still remaining bold and elegant. The coat on the right was actually hand-crafted by the women wearing it, which is absolutely incredible! I’ll link her blog at the bottom, if you want to check out her other designs.


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On the right: Gold Embossed Silk Dress by Roland Mouret

As I said, Edward VIII’s abdication of the throne to marry Wallis Simpson was one of (if not the ultimate) groundbreaking event of the decade. Though she was looked upon with notoriety, she did have an influential sense of style throughout her life. Designer Roland Mouret drew direct inspiration from Simpson when he created this gold embossed silky maxi-dress, which he stated was meant to be a tribute to her iconic wardrobe. Simpson is quoted as saying, “My husband gave up everything for me. I’m not a beautiful woman. I’m nothing to look at, so the only thing I can do is dress better than anyone else.” Wallis, you need not worry- your iconic sense of style is just as inspiring now as it was eighty years ago.


This Old Life: http://nabbysvintagelife.blogspot.com/2011/05/its-winter-again.html

Sources: https://vintagedancer.com/1930s/1930s-fashion/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1930%E2%80%931945_in_Western_fashion

https://www.pinterest.com/libbycatt/art-deco-gowns/

https://www.fashion-era.com/

https://cdm16028.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p15324coll12/search/searchterm/193*/field/title/mode/all/conn/and/order/nosort

https://www.sophiesiennavintage.com/listing/559477111/vintage-1930s-winter-coat-mohair 

When you think of the 1920s, you may think of glitz and glamour, parties and flappers. And certainly, the Gatsby-era we associate with the 1920s is a pretty accurate representation of the times. The 1920s was a mish-mosh of modernization, jazz, sportswear, and feminism- and the clothes definitely represent those themes. Let’s take a look at three iconic styles from the 1920s, and see how they’ve translated into fashion today.

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Left: circa early 1920s

The boyish figure was a newfound revelation of the 1920s, but ironically, the flapper was not considered “stylish” by any standards at the time. The midi dress we see on the left is a perfect example of the rebellious young gal of the 20s- her dress is embellished with theatrical details and beading, and she’s dripping in luxurious amounts of jewelry. On the right, we can see how the flapper dress inspired the brand Venus- this midi dress is only one of the dozens of dresses that draw inspiration from the 1920s flapper. The slimming fringed dress is extremely similar in style to the 1920s dress, from the color and cut to the actual embellishments itself. Fringe on dresses budded as a popular trend in the 1920s, especially for the flappers. Can you imagine how lovely it would be to dance in a fringed dress, swinging all around you with movement? Now, with these vintage-inspired evening gowns, you can.


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Left: 1923, mother with hands folded

One of my absolute favorite websites for vintage-inspired clothes is Unique Vintage, because they consistently deliver great-quality clothes. They’re also generally historically accurate, and draw a lot of inspiration from a variety of different decades. You may look at the dress on the right and assume it’s based on the 1940s, and while there are certainly elements, I actually see a lot of 1920s inspiration. Sometimes we forget that there were other women besides the flapper, such as a the mother pictured on the left. Besides the obvious similarities in pattern (polka-dots were a popular pattern at the time), there are similarities in the collar, dress length, and slight flare in the hip area. A notable difference, however, is the way the two dresses hang differently. A more masculine figure was seen as beautiful in the 1920s, so many women liked their chests and hips to look flat. On the right, however, the dress has been updated to hug the model’s curves, and emphasis a more feminine cut.


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Left: Joan Bennett wearing Coco Chanel in 1928

Of course, if we’re going to talk about the 1920s, we cannot leave out the emergence of the little black dress. You may have remembered it, in some form or another, on a more modern figure like Audrey Hepburn. However, Chanel’s little black dress had already started picking up momentum long before that. On the left, we can see Joan Bennett wearing a 1928 LBD designed by Coco Chanel, and on the right is a modern Grace Karin evening gown. I was immediately stricken by the similarities in the slightly-revealing mesh collar area, and, of course, the sleeveless, slinky shape of both garments. Keeping with the trends of the 1920s, Chanel’s dress falls on Bennett in a masculine shape, concealing her curves and womanly figure. While the dress on the right has been slightly modernized, it still delivers that old-Hollywood glam that Chanel first pioneered, and personally, I think it’s a great interpretation of the golden age of glitz and glamour.


Sources:

https://www.lcps.org/cms/lib4/va01000195/centricity/domain/5366/fashion_in_the_1920s.pdfhttps://video.vogue.com/watch/vogue-125-anniversary-video-twenties-fashion-history-sarah-jessica-parker

https://www.scribd.comm/doc/29535056/American-Pop-Culture#outer_page_317z

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1920s_in_Western_fashion

https://www.venus.com/productlanding.aspx?BRANCH=7~72~&ProductDisplayID=34365&clr=BK&sc=XWEBSEM75&cm_mmc=PLA-_-Google-_-Z48563-8-BK-_-BKT_M-UN&hc_source=google&hc_medium=cpc&hc_campaign=UN_Mid&hc_term=Z48563-8-BK&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkIzlBRDzARIsABgXqV8AP-SBMqe4jJWF2wixKPt5VcCp1tOBYPjMMGdNe1qbh7iVnoDZYOUaAgm-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.unique-vintage.com/products/unique-vintage-plus-size-1940s-navy-white-polka-dot-lace-collar-margie-dress?variant=15984667590758?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkIzlBRDzARIsABgXqV-0sDlfDDBg62eQ6Dni9imdwDI4Wx7GjuawMZOUcuOJvvztG301lt8aAmCZEALw_wcB

https://www.elle.com/fashion/g8192/evolution-of-the-little-black-dress/?slide=1

https://www.gracekarin.com/collections/evening-dresses/products/short-sleeve-round-neck-high-low-black-lace-evening-prom-dress?variant=1949487497225

 

 

 

In the present day of 2019, we look back at the roaring 20s as a celebration of womanly freedom, parties, glitz and glamour. Financial royalty was at its height, with a celebration of youthfulness and frivolousness taking center stage after the solemnity of World War I. One of the most iconic archetypes of the 1920s, of course, is the flapper: ironically, seen then as an unstylish woman who embraced a boyish style and sexually liberated life. In the 21st century, we can still see influences of the 1920s carried into our fashion world today, especially in regards to the timeless flapper and her style.

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On the left: Designed by Chanel, early 1920s

Coco Chanel, for example, is still celebrated today as a pioneer in the development of women’s fashion. Although Coco herself is no longer with us, her fashion house and label lives on, continuing to celebrate her image and fashionable contributions. One of the elements that made Coco’s vision so special was her then-radical idea that women’s fashion could be leisurely, laid-back, and loose. In today’s society, sportswear and leisurewear is an incredibly large aspect of fashion, for the working woman and the woman on-the-go. Coco celebrated the idea that women could work, and feel comfortable and at ease while they did so. Additionally, while Coco certainly did not invent the idea of women wearing trousers, she did propel it into the fashion world as a newfound movement. A pair of work trousers is now an essential in any woman’s closet, and for this renovation, we can thank Coco Chanel. On the left, we can see Chanel wearing her yachting pants, which she utilized more for comfort than style. Though they were once thought of as beachwear or loungewear, we can see through the image on the right that trousers and “yacht” pants are often worn in a professional, dressy environment. These particular trousers, sold through NastyGal, are directly inspired by Chanel’s iconic look.


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On the left, British Army boots, circa early 1920s

Even the more serious elements of fashion have made a lasting cultural impact on the designs we see today. These 1920s British Army boots, for example, remind me quite a bit of the modern gothic winklepickers you might pick up on an online shop. While the colors are obviously different (as with the occasions for which they are designed), I see similarities in the cut, height, and of course, side buckles. While winklepickers, the essential goth shoes of the 1980s, hit peak popularity forty years ago, they’ve come slowly come back in style for trad-goths seeking a revival of the vintage boot shape.


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On the left: 1925

One of my favorite fashion moments is the revival of the luxurious fur coat, because we’re still able to enjoy the rich nature of the design with the perk of using synthetic materials! Hooray, for not skinning animals! This coat worn by Eleanor Boardman circa 1925 is quite lovely, with the fur is included for both aesthetic and warmth purposes. Today, because we no longer necessarily need wool due scientifically manufactured thermal fabrics, faux-fur is simply added to most coats as a fashion accessory instead. This certainly rings true for this black faux fur Hell Bunny coat- I can testify from personal wear that this coat is full of all the flirt and luxury reminiscent of the roaring 20s, but without the harm of animals involved. The modernized coat also includes a hood- a modern step up from its 1920s ancestor, and a nice touch of individuality from Hell Bunny.


Sources

Mendes, Valerie, and Amy De la Haye. Fashion since 1900. Thames & Hudson.

“Seven Wonders: How Coco Chanel Changed the Course of Women’s Fashion.” WonderlandMagazine.com.

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Hello, lovely people! The spring semester here at college is winding down, and as a part of my final project for a fashion history class, I am going to be putting out a fashion journal for every decade, from 1900 to 1999. Because of that, I’m going to be publishing FIVE articles a week, instead of three, because I already have my normal articles planned out and set to be published on their normal days. Basically, this is how the fashion journal is going to go: I’m going to post pictures of three garments from each decade, and compare it to a modern garment that was inspired by it. I’ll also be including the sources to the images at the bottom of each article, if you’re interested in looking further into it. Without further adieu, let’s jump into the 1910s!

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On the left: 1907

The first garment that struck my eye is the arrow shirt collar, which was popular in women’s blouses in the 1910s. This collar was desirable to women, because they wanted to appear slim, and with a low, full chest. At the time, being slimmed and elongated meant you were a confident woman, so the silhouette was well-sought out. The garment on the left is pictured from 1907, and perfectly represents that “pigeon-breast” shape. In turn, we can see the inspiration from the arrow shirt collar in this modern blouse, which is manufactured by Farfetch. The flare style, long sleeves, and even the embroidery are reminiscent of the ideal womanly shape in the 1910s, and to this day, it’s still a very flattering, popular design.


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On the left: Early Paul Poiret turban

Hair turbans were also very fashionable at the time, especially with the emergence of Paul Poiret’s designs. As a very theatrical, bold designer, Poiret loved to dress a sophisticated woman, who literally dressed from head to toe. The glittery, dazzling, romantic aura of Poiret’s turban (seen on the left) undeniably inspired the popularity of fashion turbans today. The turban on the right is designed by Julia Clancey, and everything from the backdrop to the turban itself screams “Poiret” to me. The modern turban strikes me as being very theatrical and glamorous, and that’s exactly the aura Paul Poiret wanted to put out.


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Top: Early Homburg Hat, 1907

Now, let’s not leave out men’s fashion! Interestingly, the popular men’s hat on the left, the Homburg Hat, has now become universally unisex. The Homburg Hat was originally made of stiff wool felt, and was characterized by a single dent running down the center of the crown. On the bottom, we can still see the iconic dent, but this hat is made of faux fur and has an embellished bright feather on the side. Like I said, this hat has become a gender-less accessory, while still upkeeping a classic, old-fashioned beauty. It’s interesting to me how shapes and designs can transform socially, while still staying the same structurally, and the Homburg hat is a perfect example of that.


Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1900s_in_Western_fashion#Style_gallery_1900%E2%80%931906https://www.elyxboutique.com/products/elyx-turbans-by-julia-clanceyhttps://www.villagehatshop.com/product/all-fedoras/451139-75907/stetson-fur-felt-homburg-hat.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7YblBRDFARIsAKkK-dKklx0sLfknZegAHcSNPIZsfHRzAGct-FCQNvmO76UUgpyGI91Tkw4aAlM9EALw_wcB

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